The Wild Geese

Expedition National Park Revisited


I rode with Bumble Goose on Saturday to Cania Gorge for the Sunshine Coast Ulysses campover. Probably the best part of that ride was the stretch from Woolooga to Biggenden. Great roads which even a short stretch of dirt couldn't spoil (for Mick that is, I actually enjoy the dirt). About forty Ulysseans were gathered at the Gorge and much fun was had by all. A few of us managed a short walk through the Gorge on the Sunday morning, then it was time for me to pack up and head back to Eidsvold. I rolled in right on 11 am, as arranged, and met up with Jack (KTM 950 Adventure) and Joe (Suzuki V-Strom 650), who were already waiting for me. Minutes later we were joined by Russell (Yamaha XT 600 Tenere).

After introductions all round we were soon back on the road heading for Cracow. The country road turned to dirt after about half an hour. I was the only one not to have lowered my tyre pressures so my bike was a bit squirrelly, but this didn't matter at first as the road was dead straight and a reasonable gravel surface. This straight road took us to Cracow where we decided against a beer in the very busy pub (the town's fortunes have been revived now that the gold mine has been reopened), and opted instead to look around the abandoned hospital. The doors are all wide open so we figured that no one would mind.

At the hospitalIt has not entirely been gutted...

Back on the road, Jack continued in the lead and we followed more dirt roads towards Taroom. We hit a number of sandy patches which Jack afterwards reported to have been almost unnoticeable on his knobby-shod KTM; my bike though moved around a lot and felt a couple of times as though it was going to fold under me. I was able to stay on the pegs and by keeping the power on the bike sorted itself out every time. Joe was having similar problems and did drop the bike once in deep soft sand. No harm to bike or rider and he was soon on his way again (at a great rate of knots, as he wanted to catch back up with Russell). It took me a while to realise that he had taken off like a scalded cat so I was well behind and really had to open up the KTM to catch up.

We pulled into Taroom in drizzle, refuelled at a (for me) record price of $1.56 for Premium, and spent an hour or so relaxing and hoping that the weather would clear. It stayed damp though so we decided to cut the ride short for the day and head 30km out of town to camp at Lake Murphy for the night. We were the only visitors so we took over the four-table shelter - one for each of us to sleep on, although Russell elected to set up his tent. Not sure if he wanted to spare us his snoring, or wanted to avoid ours! The light rain continued sporadically and with no open fire to keep back the dark we were soon bunked down for the night.

Next morning Joe was unsure of his V-Strom handling the damp conditions and decided to head for home. The rest of us got going around 9am and headed for the park, in the dry but under overcast skies. The night's rain had if anything improved riding conditions, the roads were dry but not dusty. I was also going a lot better today after letting some air out of my tyres; I still had higher pressures than anyone else so I was not in any danger of tyres creeping on the rims. Shortly into the ride I lost my shoes off the back of the bike but Jack spotted them and retrieved them for me. He was less fortunate as he lost his jerry can of spare fuel and tail-ender Russell didn't see it, so it didn't get rescued. We were almost at the park by the time the loss was noticed so it was not worthwhile going back to look for it. We decided instead to look out for it on the return journey. We got to the park around lunchtime, set up camp, then took the short but interesting 4x4 track to Cattle Dip lookout. Back at camp we settled in for a lazy and sunny afternoon and arranged a decent campfire for the evening. A bit later to bed this evening, around 11pm, thanks to the fire and and some good company. The tank water here was fine for cooking and tea or coffee, but not ideal for drinking water. Jack had brought his own, I will do the same next time.

Jack and Russ, just
arrived at Expedition NP
Cattle Dip Lookout

After breaking camp the next day Russell's $1,000 Yamaha (which despite the price has been on extensive travels in Asia), decided not to start. The battery was the likely culprit as it didn't seem able to turn the motor over fast enough. The three of us tried without success to push start it - high compression singles prefer to lock the rear wheel than to turn over and fire. We eventually pushed the bike to the top of the nearby hill and Russ was able to get the motor running just before he ran out of road. Lucky really, I was quite prepared to push it in the creek rather than push it back up the hill.

We all headed north out of camp, following another fun 4x4 track the 17km to the northern entry to the park. From here Russ continued north on his trip to the Gulf, Jack and I turned south. The roads had dried a little more and were dusty but OK. There were some ruts from recent rains though, suggesting that this road would be quite chellenging if it really rained. We refuelled in Taroom (having failed to spot Jack's missing fuel can), and continued cross-country in the general direction of Murgon. Great roads, a mixture of tar and gravel, but somewhere around here I picked up a nail in my rear tyre and ended up with a puncture. This is becoming something of a feature on my dirt rides - see my tale of tyres ride report for a story of similar woes on my GS. Roadside repair proved straightforward using our combined toolkits - KTM had omitted to include the rear axle spanner in my toolkit so I would have been stranded if our bikes had not been identical. The surprise was that breaking the tyre bead proved easy using the bike's side stand. There are lots of stories on the web of this task being impossible due to a safety bead on the inside of the rim, and Jack has experienced the same problem, but apparently it becomes much easier with warm tyres. The bad news was that the first patch didn't want to stick, and the second patch seemed a bit doubtful too. The wheel went back on the bike anyway and we continued cross country.

We somehow managed to miss the dirt road that was to take us to Murgon and ended up too far south. Around this time my patched tube decided to leak completely flat again so another roadside puncture repair was called for. The problem was that the patch had failed to hold so on went yet another patch and we were off again. The new patch also failed to hold all the air where it belonged and the tyre needed pumping up a couple of times along the way. We had lost a lot of time and we were soon riding dirt roads in the dark. Jack handled this a lot better than me, even though my bike had extra lights. I think my confidence in the bike was considerably reduced due to the suspect patches, and my previous experience of being thrown off the GS by a damaged rear tyre. Never mind, we eventually rolled into Jandowae (just north of Dalby), had a meal and a beer or two, and made the aquaintance of Ed and Johnno who were working in the area on a gas pipeline to fuel the power station. Johnno generously offered us the use of the two spare bunks in his company cabin, and we were glad to take him up on the offer given the coolness of the night.

In the morning, well refreshed, we both headed into Dalby and rolled into Dalby Moto for a bit of a chat and a new (heavy duty) rear tube for me. Jack and I parted ways here, he for the short hop to Fernvale, me for more adventure riding on the back roads over the Bunya mountains to Kilcoy, and from there up towards Jimna and more gravel down Sunday Creek Road to Kenilworth. A short blast back to Eumundi and I was home again.

All in all a great extended weekend, quite varied, with just enough adventure for my taste. The KTM acquitted itself really well and I look forward to getting knobbies fitted to see how it handles dirt roads when properly shod. Thanks to all who took part, I hope we can do it all again soon.

~ Steve

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